My 92' dx build motor and body!

 
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z6hatchboy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:02 pm    Post subject: My 92' dx build motor and body! Reply with quote
Hello, im new here but not to hondas. Im a member at h-t and have around 2000 posts with 100% (not being cocky just saying so people dont think im a noob to everything) Ok, this is my build of my 92' dx. Bought it with a broke timing belt on the b7 for $500. Then i swapped in a junk yard z6 for $200 with 200k miles on it. Burnt oil when it vtec bad (bad rings lol), but i ran it for a few months that way until i tore it apart for my vitara build using the 75.5mm vitaras and eagle rods. I used ring gaps that would let me go to 350hp fairly easily, since this is my dd i was worried anything bigger would not be as reliable.


out with b7 to make room for the z6 (since this is a 92' it was pre-wired from the factory for vtec, so i didnt get to have the fun wiring that)


The block after being bored, its not exactly .020 over but i requested that i have a p2w clearance of .003 so its close to it.


Heres a comparison of the stock to the vitara/eagle combo, they're a lot stonger (also, i used hastings rings) Razz


The eagles come with rod caps tightened down good, so you'll have to use a rubber mallet or something to get them off.


After i had set the acl's (race bearings) in and lubed with royal purple so i could set the crank in and start to assemble to turn the assembly so i could notch the girdle


The crank set in


I went ahead and put a new rear main seal in for insurance so i dont have to worry about it later


Oil pump, i used honda-bond on everything and i had a good bit left (its 12.50 a tube at my local dealership)


Measuring for ring gaps, i cant remember what gap exactly i used. But i had a really neat formula that after i used it, came to the numbers that i had planned on using from research.


Grinding the rings to size, i got this filer off ebay for around $20-$30 i think and works great. Just go a few turns at a time though, because you cant put material back on Surprised


Prepping the rods for install, the royal purple was like $12 off ebay (where i get everything). It was cheap because a guy was selling out unfortunately.


Putting the rods/pistons in, notice the dish.


Using the arp assem. lube, the bolts came with there torque guide and it goes by bolt size. I believe mine went to 40 ft. Ilbs. but i cant say for sure.


Putting the girdle on, and rotating the crank to see how much need to be taken off and where. (i had the block notched by the shop, but i forgot about the girdle so i had to do that one by myself)


Notching the girdle, i used a die grinder and some carbide bits. They seemed to work fine, you just have to keep the bits clean.


All back together now


After i put the ACT 6-puck on with heavy duty pressure plate and new through-out and pilot bearings :thumbup:


Fo life Wink


Rough fmic fitment


Motor dropped in and fmic not fully fitted yet


Motor shot, sorry for the bluryness


JDM yo! Razz

Now for the body, my dx has 237k miles on it, so i had the typical cancer spot on the rear quarters, and a 5" dent behind the pass. side door. Looked like someone through a bowling ball into it.


Looks decent, but not great especially on the other side which i never took pics off sorry. I ended up replacing the quarter on the other side with a ebay quarter and using a miller millermatic mig (miller rocks).


Cut out small rust on that side with a cut off wheel then bondo'd over it




I found one (only one ever taken) of the pass. side lol. We was going to use a stinger (stud gun) but i kept blowing holes through it, so i opted to just get a new quarter which was a better decision anyways.


Found some pics on my cell phone (razr 2 takes great pics, if anyones looking for a good camera phone) I hammer the weld seems in and bondo'd over them, however that side was so damaged that it still wasnt completely flush so it took more than i wanted, oh well.


Painting it, i used a 01' (i think) rsx magnesium metallic. It was u-tec, i wanted to use dupont croma base , but u-tec had a special and i got the clear, 1 gallon of base, and activator for like $220. The nsx silverstone alone from dupont was $260 for 1 gallon alone.




Ordered my wheels, rota track r's gold. $480, ebay.


and here it is







The side that was damaged pretty bad

So thats my project, i'm still doing stuff as we speak. All together i have around $4500 in it, but i also did everything myself. Dont think you cant do any of this, i was 17 yrs old when i did (that was 4 months ago, im 18 now) and i did the body work at school in shop so i saved a lot of money, and i used honda-tech and other places Wink . Its only running 8psi for now on a .57 trim t3/t4 on a kit i pieced together. Will be tuning for 15-20psi soon. Enjoy, feel free to comment.
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relic1
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
looking good man, welcome to the site. Very Happy

out of curiosity, what are you using to tune?
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z6hatchboy
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Joined: 29 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have crome basic now just making a base, but my comp being slow with the freelog, so if you can help me out some that would be great, with like connection setting and stuff so freelog will be more stable. If i cant get it i'll have to try to find someone in the VA that can tune with crome.
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92 dx', z6 swap with vitaras. tuning for 20psi soon! Heres my build http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2333043
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relic1
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
unfortunately I've never used Freelog, I've had a Crome Pro license for what seems like for ever. (all though now that I have an eCtune license I'm not using Crome anymore)

For freelog you want the port settings like this...
Baud Rate: 38400
Timeout: 500
Data bits: 8
Retry Count: 10
Parity: N
Stop bits: 1


there are a few people listed in the Crome tuner listing on pgmfi that are located in VA, but unfortunately none for eCtune.
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