DIY hood dampeners

 
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:27 am    Post subject: DIY hood dampeners Reply with quote
So instead of buying those $100+ Tein, NRG or Password JDM hood dampers, and after waiting for a set in a trade for a few weeks, I got tired, and went and got some hood dampers of a 1995 acura legend and fabed them on the crv. I was looking for 92-95 civic hatch glass struts, but couldn't find any.



So the legend struts made it so I only had to make one bracket for each side. The dampers were $8 for the set, and some grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers were about $2, so a total of $10 and some change for hood dampers! I also needed a metal bar of some sort. I had a piece of steel lying around at work that a co-worker had used to make a lock set up for his tool box, so I used about 6 inches of that. 3 iches on each side bracket.

They bolt to the hood bracket as any normal set would, and right up front on the fender itself. The bracket is on the fender lip (under really) between the two front fender bolts right next to the vin sticker. The bracket goes straight out, and the shock connects there. I painted the bracket black and did have to drill a hole for the bolt, but it looks fine. I was planning on only drilling a hole under the fender line, so it could never be seen, but that specific area is unreachable to put a nut in, because its behind more metal, and I didn't want to make an access hole. So now the bracket is just samwitched around the fender lip. Thats why the grade 8 bolt. So I could tighten it enough, and not brake the head off the nut, which I did, right before I went and got the grade 8! I obviously had to provide the nuts for the "bolt" (round top that the damper clips over) the damper connects to on the bracket as well, because that is actually screwed into the vehicle it came off of. I think I used an exaust/cat bolt.


Now if you look at the third picture, you'll see the shock mount has an unused bolt hole. I moved the bracket up and used the unused bolt hole, instead of the top bolt hole, and that made the hood resistance much better, the hood opened earlier, and is absolutely perfect now, just from a small adjustment!











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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
any problem with either mount twisting?
I made a set sort of like this a while back and the mounts kept twisting on me. Next time I have access to a welder and drill press I'm making a set that are built into the hinge.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
no the top on the hood didnt twist. The lower mount wanted to move because i couldnt get it tight enough, and i brke a bolt trying, so i went to lowes and got the grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers, and got it tight enough with that. You wont break a grade 8 bolt.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
a star washer between the mount and panel helps as well. But I still had issues with it loosening and turning over time.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
you need a spring washer.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
tried red locktite, but not a lock washer.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm telling you, with a grade 8 bolt/nut you can get it tight enough. I didnt even use a lock washer.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I often underestimate the power of stronger bolts with more man power behind them.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
that might be the problem you had, not enough man power bwehind you bolts Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'm resisting the urge to make a bad joke... more nuts... I think I need more sleep.
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